Blake Royer’s recent post, “Pasta Cacio e Pepe: Are Fancy Pastas Worth It?” inspired my purchases and cooking tonight, and here’s the resultant blog post. I think we made some similar conclusions through some slightly different foods. I’ll be somewhat brief as to not just echo his article.
My mother would probably faint knowing I paid SIX DOLLARS for a package of pasta today. Well, mom, wake up and smell the durum wheat semolina– the only ingredient listed on the Bartolini Emilio Ciriole package– because it’s amazing.
Supermarket pasta is good, but it serves as a background item to the sauce. It’s filler. The Six-Dollar-a-Box pasta, though, is a reason for a meal in itself. Okay, that might have been an exaggeration, but if I have to overplay the issue so you buy some, then so be it.
I couldn’t cover the expensive noodles in any old slop. Rather than using the standard Pathmark or Rienzi canned tomatoes and tomato paste, I went for the big guns. The La Valle San Marzano tomatoes are double the price of normal ones, ($1.50 / 14 oz.) but it’s absolutely worth it. They’re less acidic and more flavorful than their American counterparts. The Mutti tomato paste clocks in around four times more expensive, but it makes sense. First, it’s in a tube rather than a can, so it’ll last longer. More importantly, it tastes fruitier and lacks the metallic taste of canned tomato paste.
Let’s get on to this recipe. I’m sure it’s great even with normal pasta and tomatoes– just not lick-the-pan great.
Ciriole with Fennel (for two)
- Pasta, 2 servings
- Fennel, 1 bulb quartered
- 1 garlic clove, minced
- 1/2 medium onion, diced
- 14oz can Tomatoes
- 2 tsp Tomato Paste
- FRESH Rosemary (I said Fresh)
- Cracked red pepper (optional)
- Brown the fennel over medium-high heat, in olive oil.
- Put the fennel off to the side, to make room for the…
- Onion and garlic on medium heat. Don’t burn them…sweat them.
- Crush up the tomato using your hands (I like to do it in the can, so it’s less messy.) and add it to the onions and garlic.
- Add the tomato paste, stir it all around, and…
- Throw the fennel back in the pan.
- Add a couple springs of Rosemary and some cracked red pepper.
- Simmer, covered, for twenty, twenty five minutes.
- Check the fennel– it should seem like it’ll be done in less than ten minutes. You want it to have some bite when it’s all said and done– not just a mush. If it seems good, uncover pan.
- Pasta goes in the boiling salted water until al dente.
- The fennel should be done about a minute before the pasta finishes. Remove from the sauce into some aluminum foil so you can keep in warm and arrange it nicely. Or keep it in the sauce, and have a big old mess. Either way is fine.
- Transfer the pasta to the sauce using tongs. You want some of that pasta water to carry into the sauce. Not drenched, just mildly dripping. Mix it all around.
- Mound the pasta in the center, surround with fennel, sprinkle some chopped rosemary, and put a sprig of rosemary in the center.
- Drizzle with olive oil.
** You should be seasoning with salt and pepper the whole way through. If the sauce is too acidic add a few pinches of sugar.
** You could probably add parmigiano-reggiano, because that makes everything taste better.

Subscribe by Email